As I walked into Tosca on a recent visit, I was seated next to a person who, in a political and moral sense, represented everything I opposed. This person was the antithesis of my views, but here we were, breaking bread together. That's what makes this place work.
Strategically located within a few blocks of the White House and just off K Street, Tosca occupies a unique position at the intersection of public policy, lobbyists, and law firms. It's a culinary home that transcends personal preferences, catering to the powerful in America. The decisions likely made in this dining room have the potential to shape American policy and even global policy. The roster of patrons is a testament to the restaurant's ability to bring together individuals from diverse political backgrounds. It includes former and current Presidents of the United States, Vice Presidents, Senators, Members of Congress, White House staff, cabinet members, Governors, Supreme Court Justices,the World Bank, International Monetary Fund, and Ambassadors, to name a few. While New York has The Grill and LA’s celebrity go-to’s Craigs and Dan Tana’s, DC is where true power presides, and Tosca is at the heart of it all.
Stepping into the kitchen to meet Chef Fortunato, I was greeted by a scene straight out of a Hollywood movie. Large stock pots simmered with bones and vegetables, preparing the 'liquid gold' for the evening's sauces. Chef Fortunato Nicotra's resume would make James Beard jealous. A culinary rock star, he earned Michelin stars at two restaurants in Sicily before his 30th birthday. Nicotra then made his mark in New York City, where he served as the Executive Chef of Lidia Bastianich’s award-winning Felidia for over two decades. The restaurant earned three stars from Ruth Reichl of the New York Times only three months after his arrival. In 2006, Frank Bruni wrote another raving review, awarding Felidia a three-star rating. Wine Spectator named Felidia one of the “Top Ten Italian Restaurants in the United States,” and USA Today ranked it number two in its year-round up of restaurants around the world. Nicotra has appeared on several television food segments, including Lidia’s Kitchen and Lidia’s Italy and the Food Network’s Iron Chef. He prepared meals for Pope Benedict XVI and Pope Francis I during their visits to New York.
The team at Tosca serves everyone with precision and humility. Johnathan ten Hoopen, the genius-like, human Rolodex of the powerful and wealthy in Washington, also knows the first and last name of every cook, steward, waiter, and dishwasher in the restaurant. Here comes Johnathan with a canape or a small serving of fresh pasta with shaved black truffles, always complements of the chef. His constant warmth and welcome make the often-difficult discussions around the table just a bit easier to manage. John Neata, quiet and reserved, holds a wealth of knowledge as possibly the best sommelier in Washington. I am grateful for his friendship and advice about all things wine. Lisa Fotter, always with an eagle eye on the dining room, manages this sensitive group of patrons with the finesse of a seasoned conductor of a symphony.
Tosca is more than just a restaurant; it is a testament to the power of food to bridge divides and foster connections.
I recently said to managing member and owner, Paulo Sacco, “You treat every single person who walks in the door like a head of state.” Paulo replied simply, “It's our hospitality; everyone is welcome here.” Tosca is more than just a restaurant; it is a testament to the power of food to bridge divides and foster connections. Whether it’s political adversaries sharing a meal or the meticulous hospitality that makes every guest feel like a head of state, Tosca embodies the true essence of dining. It’s not just about the food; it’s about the experience and the people who make it extraordinary. As I left, I couldn’t help but think that Tosca might just be the most powerful restaurant in America.
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